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Fabrics
Weave Weave is what affects the nature of the fabric more than anything else. There are too many types to discuss in detail so this guide covers the most common ones you’ll come across but is by no means exhaustive. Poplin and Broadcloth: The most common fabric used in shirting. It’s a plain weave which means that it’s created using an “over and under” pattern between the warp (vertical yarn) and weft (horizontal yarn). It results in a fairly light, durable and crisp weave that’s ideal for formal occasions. Its resistance to wrinkling has made it the classic choice for dress shirts. Keep in mind that differences in the quality of raw cotton, and in plys and yarn number, will result in a huge range of quality. Because it is so ubiquitous you’ll get some very thin, almost translucent broadcloths (visible nipples) but also some that are quite substantial and suitable for wear in winter. End-on-End: This is the same plain weave seen above but different coloured yarns are interspersed within the fabric’s “over and under” pattern. The result is something that’s more visually distinct and interesting to look at up-close, yet retains the characteristic properties of poplin/broadcloth which make them desirable. This is essentially what chambray is, except that chambray undergoes a finishing process where it’s pressed by rollers at high temperatures (which creates a glossy effect). Many people assume that chambray and denim (discussed below) are essentially the same thing but they’re completely different weaves. Oxford: One of MFA’s most beloved fabrics, oxford cloth is a type of basket weave. It uses the same “over and under pattern” discussed above but an additional floating yarn passes across. Typically the yarns used are more coarse and thick (lower yarn number). Both the rougher yarn and the nature of the weave result in texture. The richer texture makes it more suitable for casual wear, it wrinkles more easily, and the added floating yarn is more susceptible to snags making it less durable. Some of the “flaws” of this fabric are really what makes it great though; an OCBD that’s been beat to hell becomes very soft and can look incredibly beautiful (similar to the fading of raw denim or patina on leather). Pinpoint: Essentially the same weave as the standard oxford, but with yarns that are thinner and finer and woven tighter (similar to those used for broadcloth/poplin). Think of it as the middle ground between broadcloth/poplin and oxford. It’s an incredibly versatile weave that retains texture while preserving a more formal look that’s acceptable to wear under a suit. Royal Oxford: Has nothing to do with oxford or pinpoint fabrics because the weave is fairly elaborate and uses four yarns. The result is something that has substantial texture but remains very shiny. As you look at it from different angles it almost appears to glimmer. It is more formal than both oxford or pinpoint fabrics and is actually very pretty to look at. Twill: Essentially a diagonal weave created by yarns woven at an offset over-under weave. It’s a very subtle way to add texture to an outfit and the weave tends to be very soft, heavy and easy to iron. The downsides are that it will never look as crisp as broadcloth/poplin and stains are harder to remove (though it’s harder to get twill dirty in the first place). It’s perhaps the most versatile fabric simply because there are so many types of twill. Many luxury dress shirts make very high yarn count twills since the weave itself is so incredibly dense. Flannel is basically brushed twill that retains its substantial weight but is less shiny much softer, thus making it very casual. If you look closely at your denim or chinos you’ll notice that they are both examples of a twill weave. If you own tweed you’ll notice that it’s wool twill. Pick-and-Pick (aka Sharkskin) was the suiting fabric that Pierce Brosnan wore as James Bond to make him stand out subtly without using too much colour. It doesn’t look like the other twills because it’s made with alternating colours within the tiny "zig-zags". The result is something that looks like a cross-hatch overlaying the usual diagonal weave. The technique and effect achieved is pretty similar to end-on-end. While we’re here, I want to point out that herringbone is not a weave, but rather a pattern in which the diagonal wales of twill reverse. Similarly houndstooth is also a pattern of twill that uses the same weave. Nailhead or Birdseye the weave is aptly named and remarkably beautiful. It’s not super common but you can occasionally find them in suits (especially with custom makers).